(Paint them to match the frame.) Make sure you clamp them while the glue dries. The last part can be a bit tricky if you're not used to making wood spacers, but you need little wood strips no wider than the lip of the moulding and glue them into the back. You can hinge the art with P- 90 or linen tape as long as you burnish it down to the glass so you've got real good contact. So you've got your frame, first piece of glass goes in, then spacers or framespace or whatever you like. I find the best way to do it is treat it like a float mount only instead of a matboard the art is mounted to glass or plex. Then to secure the construct in the frame, build a thin strainer frame painted to match, of the same thickness required to fill up to the back of the frame, and use turn-buttons to hold in place, or it's so large and thin the strainer might bow, you can predrill pilot holes in the sides and use those really tiny screws, like the black ones that are used for sawtooth hangers. Then use a spacer to keep the front (conservation) glass elevated away from the face of the artwork. But that is is no way archival-you never want anything touching the face of the artwork.įor conservation presentation maybe this would work:įloat-mount the piece (with hinges at least on each corner) onto a smaller-sized piece of coroplast, then thread wire through the fluting of the coroplast and pass it through the acrylic back via pre-drilled holes (reversible and doesn't involve tape adhesive which can let go or glues which can out-gas) Plus acrylic doesn't conduct moisture the same way glass does. With the right materials and a little bit of extra work in preparing your fabrics for framing, a range of textiles can be flattened out, framed and used as creative art around the home, or to add appeal to personalised gifts such as tea towels.Maybe use acrylic on both sides-two pieces of glass makes the package heavier, and more prone to breaking, plus the extra weight puts more strain on whatever you're using to hold everything in the frame. Mount boards should be used to put distance between the fabric and the glazing to prevent any of the ink sticking to the glazing and to minimise the potential of static from tugging any loose threads, which could lead to damage. When you are framing any textiles, it is important to stretch the fabric and secure them in place to prevent the material creasing inside the frame. It is much easier to stick boards together than it is to stick board to fabric so a base layer of acid-free mount card can be stapled in place, then the final mount you will be using in the frame attached over it.Ĭlean the glazing, inspect for dust, then put your backing board with the fabric and mount boards secured in place inside the frame and seal it. Step 3: Attach acid-neutral boards around the edge of the fabricĪcid neutral boards are ideal for stapling over the fabric. The mount board can be trimmed so that it is a little a wider than the row of staples you need to cover. You can use a spray adhesive for this or acid-free double-sided tape.Īnother reason to use a double mount is that it keeps the fabric farther away from the glazing. If you are using a double mount, as in two pieces of mount board for a dual colour scheme or thicker padding, prepare the boards first by trimming them to size and sticking them together. Keep in mind the size of the mount board you are using as this will also be used to hide the staples inside the frame. When stapling the fabric, take care to remove any creases and keep the staples as close to the edge of the backing board as possible whilst also keeping them in a straight row. For this part, stretch the fabric so it is taut and affix it in place using staples. The first phase of framing textiles is to attach the fabric to a sheet of backing board. Step 1: Prep your fabric by affixing it to the backing board An acid-neutral backing board such as a sheet of MDF.Those being stretching the fabric and securing it in place with staples. It could be used as art in the kitchen rather than using it for its practical purposes.įraming textiles is done in a similar way to most framing processes, but with a couple of additional steps involved. Take for example a personalised tea towel. Some textiles are visual works of art that deserve to be framed.
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